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Looking for a home lift (T-Bar or similar)


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#1 damdonzi

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 08:57 AM

Hi Guys,

I stumbled on this website and hope you might be able to help me or point me in the right direction. I am looking for some type of lift to put in my home that would run maybe 350-400 feet for the kids (and their parents) to be able to get pulled back to the top. Sleds/snowboards/skis in the future as they learn. I have no idea what options are out there, who makes them (my Google searches have not been too productive), how to make them yourself, and where to purchase them. I am in Southern Maine if that makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any help & Merry Christmas!

damdonzi at msn.com

This post has been edited by lastchair_44: 16 January 2008 - 02:38 PM
So this brotha doesn't get spammed!


#2 Lift Kid

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 02:27 PM

First off, welcome!

Now what I personally think would be a good idea for you, would be a handle tow, or j-bar/platter. To make one yourself, you could build a tow rope. Tow ropes are easy, and involve either a gas or electric motor, with a rope around the motor's shaft. Old tractor, or lawn tractor engines work extremely well for this. Electric motors can be purchased from places, such as Automationdirect.com. Or found used from farms, factories, etc.

For purchasing a used handle tow, or j-bar/platter, you can have a look at the following sites.

Mad River Lifts:
http://www.madriverlifts.com/mm5/merchant....tegory_Code=SLI

SAM Magazine Classifieds:
http://www.saminfo.com/marketplace/classif...ail.php?cid=682

SAM Magazine's Version of Knapp Classifieds: ****Your Best Bet****
http://www.saminfo.com/marketplace/ka_deta...ts&keyword=

The last link will have the most stuff for what you are looking for. Hope that was helpful! and good luck!

#3 BellHollowSkiBowl

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Posted 16 January 2008 - 02:08 PM

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=K-lLYo454F0

Check this out -- he used a lawn mower, bike & a some rope.... for a couple hundred feet this is a nice way to go....when you search look under "build" "ski" "backyard" & "rope tow" for best results....

#4 LiftTech

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Posted 16 January 2008 - 02:50 PM

View PostBellHollowSkiBowl, on Jan 16 2008, 05:08 PM, said:

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=K-lLYo454F0

Check this out -- he used a lawn mower, bike & a some rope.... for a couple hundred feet this is a nice way to go....when you search look under "build" "ski" "backyard" & "rope tow" for best results....


Bad idea, when your child gets sucked into this machine you will understand.

#5 Jonni

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Posted 16 January 2008 - 03:19 PM

The one thing that I would most definitely add to that contraption would be some sort of safety gate at the top. Basically some sort of stop switch that can be easily tripped by anyone who may be caught in the rope. A primitive approach would be probably two posts with a outlets on both posts with a lamp cord between them with the prongs filed down a little so that it would pull out of one of the outlets easily. String this lamp cord between the two posts through the haul rope with the filed end plugged into the outlet. Then wire the outlet such that the ignition circuit of the lawn tractor must travel through this outlet in order to run. That way if someone were to get caught in the rope they would run into the lamp cord, pull out the plug and stop the lift before they got sucked into the machinery. This would be a semi solution the issue of getting sucked into the lawnmower.

Although overall I really don't think I would trust a "lift" like that.
Chairlift n. A transportation system found at most ski areas in which a series of chairs suspended from a cable rapidly conveys anywhere from one to eight skiers from the front of one line to the back of another.

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#6 ski89

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Posted 16 January 2008 - 05:26 PM

A handletow would be a good fit for those specs.
Up and running...

#7 BellHollowSkiBowl

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Posted 17 January 2008 - 01:58 PM

View Postski89, on Jan 16 2008, 05:26 PM, said:

A handletow would be a good fit for those specs.


True -- not a good choice for kids.... if you can afford it the handletow sounds like the way to go...

check out the posting for "rope tow safety line using a 10HP motor" -- I just changed motors on my rope tow so I have not had the chance to hook up a safety on it -- I am running a line parallel to the entire lift (since I have 4 wheels for the trip up) with a kill at the top as well. This will also alllow me to shut down the engine and restart when I get to the bottom...

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#8 shoemaniii

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Posted 17 January 2008 - 05:59 PM

the distance from the stop gate to the wheel should be about 150% of the tows' stop distance. what is the speed of your tow? from the pic it almost looks like the stop gate is too close to the wheel. put a piece of ribbon on the rope and when the ribbon goes over the stop gate pull the plug. check and make sure the ribbon is not in the machinery.

as one who has personally cut a kids jacket off with my leatherman after he got caught in a handle tow, i can attest to the usefulness of stop gates. by the way, this kids face was nearly touching the bullwheel. we moved the stop gate downhill a tad after that.

have also seen a stop gate on a gas engine-powered tow shut the tow off, but the engine kept chugging. i used to call it "dieseling" or "running-on" and don't know the correct term. if you were caught in the rope and went thru the stop gate, you would at least have a little time left as it drew you into the machinery. not sure if that's a good thing.

just a little advice from someone's who's seen more than i needed to.

if you chose to run a lift without an inspection because of "big brother" or "nasty government beaurocracy interfering in my citizen's rights yada, yada" that's ok i suppose, but don't put your kids at risk. :beer:
bobp

#9 Skiing at Home

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Posted 19 January 2008 - 12:21 PM

Hey guys, Travis here, the guy who made the youtube video.

First let me say, and I probably should put some sort of shut-off relay at the top, but I am the only one skiing it...

I have more pictures of my hill at skiing at home dot com

It is as crude as it gets and probably could be done better and safer. It is really hard to hang onto when going up the hill too, a gripper would probably be wise. My goal of the whole thing was to not walk or have to use the ATV to get to the top everytime.

#10 BellHollowSkiBowl

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 12:57 PM

View Postshoemaniii, on Jan 17 2008, 05:59 PM, said:

the distance from the stop gate to the wheel should be about 150% of the tows' stop distance. what is the speed of your tow? from the pic it almost looks like the stop gate is too close to the wheel. put a piece of ribbon on the rope and when the ribbon goes over the stop gate pull the plug. check and make sure the ribbon is not in the machinery.

as one who has personally cut a kids jacket off with my leatherman after he got caught in a handle tow, i can attest to the usefulness of stop gates. by the way, this kids face was nearly touching the bullwheel. we moved the stop gate downhill a tad after that.

have also seen a stop gate on a gas engine-powered tow shut the tow off, but the engine kept chugging. i used to call it "dieseling" or "running-on" and don't know the correct term. if you were caught in the rope and went thru the stop gate, you would at least have a little time left as it drew you into the machinery. not sure if that's a good thing.

just a little advice from someone's who's seen more than i needed to.

if you chose to run a lift without an inspection because of "big brother" or "nasty government beaurocracy interfering in my citizen's rights yada, yada" that's ok i suppose, but don't put your kids at risk. :beer:
bobp


Actually the stopgate is only feet from the wheel -- the speed is currently 5 mph -- I have not tested the stop distance -- that is excellent advice I appreciate your help -- I can make the necessary adjustments -- as for the inspection I have rubber guide wheels for the trip up -- I don't believe that would pass inspection -- what does an inspection cost? Once again thanks for the advice... Chris.

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