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Lift Maint Photos


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#41 SkiBachelor

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 05:06 PM

It's at Red River, New Mexico.

http://coloradoskihi...m/redriver.html
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#42 Kicking Horse

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 07:16 PM

I thought dino was on the backside of the mountain kinda remote? I did not know that it was on the front side...
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#43 SkiBachelor

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 07:18 PM

View PostKicking Horse, on May 14 2008, 08:16 PM, said:

I thought dino was on the backside of the mountain kinda remote? I did not know that it was on the front side...


Dino is on the backside too. It's an up and over lift.
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#44 liftmech

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 04:40 AM

Back on topic-
Our annual spring activity- rebuilding tower assemblies while we can still drive a cat there. Anything we can drive a boom truck to we'll get later on. Tower 8 light side, K-lift. (sorry Jake, had to put you in the picture)

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#45 vons

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 06:44 AM

I think you will be on the snow for a long time this year. I just checked the web cam since I haven't been around in about two weeks, it still looks like march conditions

#46 chasl

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 07:46 AM

View Postliftmech, on May 15 2008, 08:40 AM, said:

Back on topic-
Our annual spring activity- rebuilding tower assemblies while we can still drive a cat there. Anything we can drive a boom truck to we'll get later on. Tower 8 light side, K-lift. (sorry Jake, had to put you in the picture)



Please what ever you guys do, I do not care what type of gin pole you are using do not hook your harness into the pole. Using an SRL and sling around the tower arm would be better.
I had two friends killed years ago at Stowe from being hooked into the gin pole. Yes, the investigation showed a couple of things they did incorrectly, but the fact remains that if they were not hooked into the pole when it let go, they would be alive today.

#47 Limelight

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 03:12 PM

View PostSkiBachelor, on May 14 2008, 08:18 PM, said:

Dino is on the backside too. It's an up and over lift.



Just curious, when was the last time Dino moved at all? I still remember riding that lift when I was a kid. That first span scared the hell out of me.

#48 Snoqualmie guy

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 08:08 PM

I think it was open to the public until the late 80's, but I don't know if they ever ran it after that.
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Why couldn't they of come up with "Global Cooling"?

#49 liftmech

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Posted 16 May 2008 - 04:27 AM

View Postchasl, on May 15 2008, 09:46 AM, said:

Please what ever you guys do, I do not care what type of gin pole you are using do not hook your harness into the pole. Using an SRL and sling around the tower arm would be better.
I had two friends killed years ago at Stowe from being hooked into the gin pole. Yes, the investigation showed a couple of things they did incorrectly, but the fact remains that if they were not hooked into the pole when it let go, they would be alive today.


I'll pass that along. Never thought of that before :blush: :bangin: Those towers have virtually no place to tie off to so that's what we've been doing.
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#50 Outback

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Posted 16 May 2008 - 11:27 AM

View Postliftmech, on May 16 2008, 05:27 AM, said:

I'll pass that along. Never thought of that before :blush: :bangin: Those towers have virtually no place to tie off to so that's what we've been doing.

Try the ladder rung or the stirrup.

#51 chasl

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Posted 16 May 2008 - 12:02 PM

View PostOutback, on May 16 2008, 02:27 PM, said:

Try the ladder rung or the stirrup.


Ladder rung gives you a 6 foot pendulum swing into the ladder, (not one I would want) unless you are in Canada or California and a 4 foot lanyard won't allow you far enough out to work, what stirrup are you talking about.
Remember any fall protection anchor must have a minimum breaking strength of 5000 lbs, unless it is an engineered anchor, that is why I would use a sling around the crossarm and an SRL to reduce the fall distance.
If anyone wants to go further you would have to have an engineer design a removable arm that could be bolted onto the tower prior to working away from ther tower tube. For most work it would take more time to install the arm than the actual work. You decide if it's worth it.

This post has been edited by chasl: 16 May 2008 - 12:04 PM


#52 skiersage

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 12:09 PM

Some photos of things currently happening at Marquette mountain. Main photos thread soon to come.

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#53 skier691

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 07:25 PM

View Postskiersage, on Aug 28 2008, 04:09 PM, said:

Some photos of things currently happening at Marquette mountain. Main photos thread soon to come.

Glad I am not having to string a new cable on a lift just put up a couple years ago, especially with the increased price of steel. Seems like waste of effort and time for the little they must of saved during install in 2006. Watch out for the duct tape, it hides everywhere and everything in da UP

This post has been edited by skier691: 29 August 2008 - 07:26 PM


#54 iwmmug

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 09:04 PM

View PostOutback, on May 16 2008, 01:27 PM, said:

Try the ladder rung or the stirrup.


what if its an aluminum ladder rung and you drop 250lbs. from six feet?

#55 liftmech

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Posted 30 August 2008 - 06:16 AM

Then you rip out the rung. Aluminum ladders are accidents waiting to happen, false sense of security and all that. ($0.02) The stirrup is just that- a loop of steel welded on the end of the tower crossarm, near the sheaves, that you can put your feet in. You can kind of see on in the photo I posted above that started this tie-off discussion- it's the triangular shape under the gin pole. All of ours are designed in one unit with the tabs that you bolt the gin pole/a-frame to. Pretty common on Yan lifts and some Pomas as well.
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#56 Outback

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Posted 30 August 2008 - 11:35 AM

View Postliftmech, on Aug 30 2008, 07:16 AM, said:

Then you rip out the rung. Aluminum ladders are accidents waiting to happen, false sense of security and all that. ($0.02) The stirrup is just that- a loop of steel welded on the end of the tower crossarm, near the sheaves, that you can put your feet in. You can kind of see on in the photo I posted above that started this tie-off discussion- it's the triangular shape under the gin pole. All of ours are designed in one unit with the tabs that you bolt the gin pole/a-frame to. Pretty common on Yan lifts and some Pomas as well.

When I replied with the ladder rung or stirrup suggestion, one would have to know YAN lifts to know what a stirrup is. Yes you could get your 5000# pull out of that one. Not much to tie off on an old YAN with no lifting frames. Used to use a choked sling around the crossarm most of the time on non-lifting frame towers. Clipping into the ladder rung (YAN style, not aluminum by the way) is more of a false sense of security and should be avoided.

#57 Allan

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Posted 30 August 2008 - 12:28 PM

View PostOutback, on Aug 30 2008, 12:35 PM, said:

When I replied with the ladder rung or stirrup suggestion, one would have to know YAN lifts to know what a stirrup is. Yes you could get your 5000# pull out of that one. Not much to tie off on an old YAN with no lifting frames. Used to use a choked sling around the crossarm most of the time on non-lifting frame towers. Clipping into the ladder rung (YAN style, not aluminum by the way) is more of a false sense of security and should be avoided.


I learned that a few years ago when a rung snapped off when I stepped on it!
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#58 chasl

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Posted 30 August 2008 - 08:07 PM

If one were to use an aluminum ladder rung as a tie off, remember to use the outside rail above a rung as your anchorage point. Any tower with an aluminum ladder should have a ladder climbing system installed.

Also do not get stuck on the 5000 Lb. requirement for anchor point, that is only for a non engineered anchor. Any competent engineer can design for you an anchorage system. Engineered anchors only require a 2:1 ratio or 1800 lbs. This would still be above the ladder rung rating. So if you do not have a ladder climbing system on your aluminum ladder, be sure to use one of the outside rails as the place to install your lanyard connector. It might be possible to rip out 1 or 2 rungs but not all of them, I hope.
Also unless it is designed for it, never run your lanyard around an anchor and back to itself. Use a large connector or connecting means that will go around the anchor point.





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