20 replies to this topic

[ski89]

My used lift that I bought (hall 500 t-bar) has steel plates that hinge on a bolt that if the cable were to fall off would cut a wire and stop the lift. Does anyone know if this type is still permissable in NH as part of a reinstall? Someone had mentioned proximity switches.

[lastchair_44]

I'm pretty sure that's a suitable safety. Prox switches are only required on lifts that run over 600 fpm.

[liftmech]

Sounds cumbersome, but if they work as designed they shouldn't be a problem. Proxy switches are smaller and easier to mount, but if you've already got a working system (all towers have switches and you aren't missing any) I wouldn't worry about it.

[lastchair_44]

prox switches are pricey though...where as a DoppTec brittle bar is only $35

[ski89]

Well, I tested all the switches and not all of them actually cut the wire. I figured I could straighten the plates and tighten the bolts some, but the seemed a bit rube goldbergish to me. Lastchair44 what is and where do I get a Dopptech brittle bar? I have not blasted and repainted the shieve carriers yet because they need some attention therefore a retrofit of new switches would not be a problem.

[mikest2]

You can get the Doppelmayr Break fork switch from any of Doppelmayr's offices. Leitner also uses an identical switch body, so you might check with Leitner-Poma as their pricing is usually a little better (1 800 950 7662) Drop me a PM and I can get you part numbers on monday

This post has been edited by mikest2: 21 April 2006 - 03:30 PM

[Peter]

Doppelmayr now does all the parts for Hall. Heres a parts catalog from 2003 for Hall and VonRoll

Attached File(s)

•  Hall_VonRoll_2003_Parts_Catalog.pdf (610.43K)
  Number of downloads: 36

[lastchair_44]

this style of break fork is up your alley...there is also a straight trace break fork that could be used as well. I think these are around 7-10 dollars a piece. These are used on Yan installations and Doppelmayr as well...however I think that the Yan cap that "recieves" the brittle bar to be wired into the circuit is cheaper than Dopp's. I'll post pics of both with part numbers etc. on Monday unless someone beats me to it

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•  breakfork.jpg (5.44K)
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[Allan]

Doppelmayr setup shown in the bottom of the picture... Please ignore worn liners and bad alignment...

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•  43630093.JPG (1.09MB)
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[ski89]

Thanks guys, So much useful info. Still not sure what would be the best fit. Here are some pictures of the current set-up. Looks like they have been modified once before.

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•  switch.JPG (91.27K)
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•  switch2.JPG (275.22K)
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[ski89]

That thread was getting long. lastchair_44 or mikest2 do you have any pictures of the cap or switch body and could you tell me how they work and are mounted and possibly part numbers?

[Allan]

The picture from the Doppelmayr setup is the same one I posted... here's one of the styles that lastchair_44 promised... not a very good pic though.

Another view of the Doppelmayr setup

Another shot of a doppelmayr setup on a mueller

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•  MotherLode___Break_Fork.JPG (245.64K)
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•  T_Bar___Combo_Tower_Downhill__1.JPG (232.39K)
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•  43630017.JPG (1.03MB)
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[mikest2]

I had some old Doppelmayr OE assemblies that had the break fork switch body mounted right where your guillotine switch is. The end of the break fork extended past the sheave sideplate, so that if the rope drops off the sheave it breaks the fork. I have a poor picture of it, but no drawings. If you send me your fax number I'll fax the pic. I'm not back at my office til monday.

[lastchair_44]

Sorry I've been super busy this week moving all our grip stuff down to the bottom of our gondola. I guess we're going to try tear-down, NDT, and re-build down there! Anyway...I'm sorry I haven't had time to get photos...I'll get some first thing tomorrow morning
Oh...and I'll try to get you some part #'s as well

[ski89]

not a big rush guys I've got about 2 weeks till I get the sheave carriers back here. Just don't want you to forget. Thanks.

[lastchair_44]

Ok...here are some pictures...Ski89 I'm PM'ing you the part numbers for the green CTEC style "brittle bar", as well as the part numbers for the doppelmayr switch body and break forks.
K- the first 3 pics are the Yan style switch body and break forks. The cap on top un screws allowing you to put the element or break fork into the switch body...another cap (not shown) screws on to the bottom of the switch body once you have your switch wired in. The 4th photo is of the doppelmayr switch body/break fork. I like these because you can get a red sleeve to slide over the break fork to protect it from the weather...this is especially nice for wet/cold days to prevent ice build up. The last 2 pictures are of the CTEC style "brittle bar". Once you have this switch wired in...there is a little black boot that slides over the wago terminal (orange piece). It is also recommended that you use tie wrap to secure the SO cord to the brittle bar itself...see the little holes behind the wago terminal? I'd imagine you'd have to farm up some kind bracket to secure this to your sheave assemblies...or you could just buy some but they're not that complicated. I'll post a pic of the brackets next week sometime. Hope this helps

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•  break_forks_and_switch_bodies_001.jpg (674.01K)
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•  break_forks_and_switch_bodies_002.jpg (683.28K)
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•  break_forks_and_switch_bodies_003.jpg (669.43K)
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•  break_forks_and_switch_bodies_004.jpg (658.4K)
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•  break_forks_and_switch_bodies_005.jpg (673.96K)
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•  break_forks_and_switch_bodies_006.jpg (682.02K)
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[ski89]

Thanks everyone for your help. It was with a brief conversation with Tramway Guy that I determined the problem with my safety switches and it all makes sense now. Aparently the wire needs to be restrained to the top of the switch in order to assure that it will be cut when the lever is pushed down by the cable. I thought they relied on the shearing action of the plates. Since none of the wires were twisted above the plates in order to retain them, not all of them were cut. I think I will keep the switches and concentrate on obtaining the opposing sheaves. I have been told that a 14 ga. solid wire twisted on top will do the job. Thanks again. 398 steps to go.

[Aussierob]

Hey Jimmi, I think that's the first time I've seen some one put a fork on the cable entry of a doppelmayr switch.

[lastchair_44]

Aussierob, on May 2 2006, 08:19 PM, said:

Hey Jimmi, I think that's the first time I've seen some one put a fork on the cable entry of a doppelmayr switch.

?

[Allan]

Aussierob, on May 2 2006, 09:19 PM, said:

Hey Jimmi, I think that's the first time I've seen some one put a fork on the cable entry of a doppelmayr switch.

Oh good, I'm not crazy!! Jimmi - you have the fork in the wrong end of the switch :)